I simply adore Healdsburg. I mean it might even be love. There, I’ve said it and I pray you don’t dislike me for it. Don’t get me wrong, I am devoted to Sonoma, married if you will, but as far as scandalous affairs go…mine would be with Healdsburg. A small town of contradictions, she’s all country, but also cleans up real nice. With rustic barns turned swanky tasting rooms, posh boutiques, old fashioned country mercantiles hawking chichi local cheeses, Michelin-starred restaurants and farm-to-table parties in pastures, Healdsburg has truly got it going on. With a wonderful handful of new things to do – and eat! and drink! – there’s no better time to pay a visit to our scrumptious neighbor to the North.
In Healdsburg there’re wineries galore, but I guarantee you’ve never seen one quite like this. The amazing new Francis Ford Coppola Winery is a Disney-esque playground for wine, food and fun for the whole family. The stunning structure is perched atop a hill allowing the restaurant’s outdoor diners the fortunate and rare view of sprawling vineyards, the steaming Geysers in the distance. An oversized, shimmering pool is surrounded by European-style cabines, colorful pennants waving from their roofs and all, which can be reserved, guaranteeing your group a full day of amusement for a mere $75. As if that weren’t enough, the bocce courts, the live music pavilion, the movie memorabilia museum or the tasting bar would surely do the trick. At the winery’s restaurant, Rustic, the menu is a peculiar assortment of “Francis’ Favorite” dishes from around the world that curiously work, while allowing the diner to somehow feel a kinship to the ultra famous movie director. Whatever you do, you must order the outrageous L’Ami Louis Gateau de Pommes! This sublime dish is a happy combination of potatoes, goose fat and an obscene amount of garlic, which are roasted to a state of golden, crunchy perfection. Francis Ford Coppola, 300 Via Archimedes, 857.1485, franciscoppolawinery.com.
It’s not often that a business just gets everything right and is so perfect in so many ways that you would simply move right in and never leave, if given the chance. Well, that’s exactly how I feel each time I visit the Medlock Ames tasting room, housed in the painstakingly restored, century old Alexander Valley Bar and Store. Tastings, if so desired, are accompanied by small bites that are – phenomenally – perfectly paired with each wine that you quickly realize these folks must truly possess an exceptional passion for food and wine. Not only do they produce stellar wines, but the surrounding herb and vegetable gardens, and olive and fruit trees provide year-round bounty for their events, tastings and for the imaginative cocktails served nightly in the wondrous old bar concealed speakeasy-like, behind an unmarked door. It’s quite possible that you’ll be knocking back that glass of ’06 Merlot right next to luminaries of the Northern California food world such as Nancy Prebilich of the sustainable Gleason Ranch, or Laura Howard-Gayeton of Laloo’s Goat Milk Ice Cream Company, Cheesemaker Liam Callahan of the award-winning Bellwether Farms or even the pork-loving chef, Dino Bugica of Restaurant Diavola. All of whom are featured in a series of amazing artisan food events at the tasting room in the next couple of months. Medlock Ames, 3487 Alexander Valley Road, medlockames.com, 431.1904.
All perfect little towns should have a perfect little general store and the Healdsburg area has the amazing good fortune of having two. The Jimtown Store is a pleasurable rest stop between wine tastings. Poke through their thoughtfully curated goods, a bit of kitsch with plentiful amounts of Americana. If you’re hungry – of course you’re hungry! – order one of their ginormous sandwiches…a “grown-up peanut butter, Jimtown spicy pepper jam and bacon sandwich” anyone? Jimtown Store, 6706 Highway 128. jimtown.com. The Dry Creek General Store was established in 1881 and retains a ton of its original, historic charm. The sprawling front porch is generously lined with rockers and communal tables, a gracious invitation to linger. Oversized glass jars in the deli are filled with locally produced beef jerky and homemade sweets, while unique cookbooks share shelf space with upscale housewares and Dry Creek olive oils. The store is undoubtably sweet, but the atmospheric old bar is truly irresistible. Order a beer, a homemade pickled egg, toss a quarter in the ancient juke box and watch the sunset over the gorgeous Dry Creek Valley. Dry Creek General Store, 3495 Dry Creek Road, drycreekgeneralstore1881.com.
Yes, Healdsburg certainly has plenty of outstanding wine-drinking opportunities, but if you’re looking for more of a delicious, edible diversion, head to the Cheese Shop. What the tiny shop a block off of the Healdsburg Plaza are displayed beautifully, and the accommodating staff offers plenty of tastes and educated advice to ease the overwhelming decision in just which cheese to choose. To complete the necessary picnic provisions, owner Doralice Handal offers a delightful selection of appropriate accompaniments such as honeys, crackers, sweets, spices and charcuterie. The Cheese Shop in Healdsburg, 423 Center Street, sharpandnutty.com. Another spot your designated driver will certainly appreciate is the Dry Creek Olive Company. The award winning olive oil company offers guided tastings of their oils and a selection of olive-y gifts in a small tasting room attached to their working mill. The wooden deck is a perfect spot for picnicking or, during one of their festive events, feasting on pizza from the wood-burning oven. Dry Creek Olive Company, 4791 Dry Creek Road, drycreekolivecompany.com.
A food and wine filled road trip to the Healdsburg area would not be complete without a meal at Diavola Pizzeria and Salumeria, although technically in the crazy-cool town of Geyserville. I mean…in what other state would a minuscule, off the beaten track town have not one, but multiple spots for drinking fabulous wine and house an exceptional, restaurant with a super talented and creative chef? Diavola practices “cucina povera,” which basically means that you take simple, local and seasonal ingredients and prepare them simply, without messing them up. The house-made charcuterie is a must, Chef Dino Bugica studied with butchers in Italy where he perfected the craft. A wood-burning oven cranks out thin pies with blistered crusts and authentic toppings. With a great deal of natural light, exposed brick and rustic wood, the vibe is unpretentious, but somehow chic. Just like the Healdsburg area. Diavola, 21021 Geyserville Avenue, 814.0111, diavolapizzeria.com.
On the Menu
Cornerstone’s all-things tomato fest, “Tomatomania,” is this weekend, April 16 and 17. Coined, “the world’s largest – and most fun – tomato seedling sale!” is expected to offer over 200 varieties of the most classic and unique tomato seedlings anywhere. You’ll also get expert advice from the Tomatomania team and the opportunity to purchase everything else you’ll need to make this season a huge success; containers, stakes and cages, ties, fertilizer and more. Educational workshops each day include: “Edible Gardens,” with Dawn Smith at 11am and “All About Tomatoes,” with Scott Daigre at 2 p.m. Visit cornerstonegardens.com or call 933.3010 for details.
• Also this weekend, April 16 and 17, more than twenty wineries open their doors, offering unique food and wine experiences, music, special tastings, tours or crafts for the annual event, April in Carneros. Tickets are $35 in advance, $40 the day of. For more information and to see the list of participating wineries, visit carneroswineries.org or call 800.366.2806.
• The legendary Patricia Wells has a new book out, just in time for spring lettuces: “Salad as a Meal: Healthy Main Dish Salads for Every Season.” She’ll be in Larkspur on Tuesday, April 26, for another wonderful Cooks with Books dinner at the Left Bank restaurant. To make reservations, call 415.927.0960 or visit bookpassage.com.
• On Saturday, May 7, at 9:30 a.m. come to my Plaza shop, Junipero & Co. for a workshop entitled, “Backyard Chickens with Nix Chix.” Enjoy a festive morning of chicken education with Nick Rupiper, of Sonoma’s Nix Chix. Bring your own eggs to swap with others and enter the Deviled Egg Contest, if you’d like. Nick will discuss how to start a backyard flock, coop designs, breeds, basic chicken care and will address common misconceptions. $10 per person. All proceeds benefit the Sonoma Garden Park. Space is extremely limited, call 939.9065 to reserve your spot.
• The Epicurean Connection’s Sheana Davis has announced a new series of Home Cheesemaking Classes to be held at the Sonoma Valley Inn. The first is on Sunday, May 15. Students will learn the basic principles of making fresh cheeses at home such as chèvre, fromage Blanc, crème fraiche and paneer and will then enjoy a cheese plate. Classes are $45 per person and begin at 1 p.m. Please call 938.9200 to make reservations or visit sheanadavis.com for a full schedule of classes.
• The sustainable and yummy seafood spot in Napa’s Riverfront complex, Fish Story, is now offering Happy Hour prices on select beer, wine, cocktails and small plates from 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. seven days a week. If you’ve been meaning to check this newish restaurant out, this is a great – and affordable – opportunity to sample their fare and enjoy an afternoon on the Napa River. Fish Story is located at 790 Main Street, 251.5600.
What’s cooking Sonoma?
I’ve got a heaping scoop of fresh food news for you this week Sonoma Valley. After closing for quick renovations last week, the Ledson’s Harmony Lounge on the Plaza has reopened as Centre du Vin. The incredibly inviting indoor-outdoor space now sports classic French bistro decor such as the token red awning, boxwood planters and comfy wicker seating. The small plates menu has also received a welcome facelift thanks to Francois de Tessan, of the late La Poste. Find a hand written menu of simple, but elegant fare, such as an unadorned butter lettuce salad, a lovely smoked salmon plate, a traditional, toasty croque monsieur, a cheese plate and more. The whole scene is a chic addition to the Plaza…a perfect spot for whiling away a sun-filled afternoon, glass of Lillet in-hand. Live music Fridays return in May. Open daily noon to 9-ish.
• The wonderful renovations to Murphy’s space and their pub menu have also been complete now for a few weeks. The roomier bar is much appreciated, as are the fresh, updated dishes. I am excited to try the new 50/50 Burger, half grass-fed beef and half bacon, ground in-house, which Chef Sarah Pinkin says is “pretty ridiculously yummy.”
• Even more news on the renovations front: the new and improved girl and the fig patio is still a couple of weeks away from completion, but will surely be beautiful and finished in time for our warmer weather. In other news, thanks to our recent sunshine, the restaurant’s extensive garden at Imagery Winery has just begun to be planted. Look for homegrown produce on their menus soon.
• LaSalette now offers their scrumptious little homemade rolls for your next gathering. Made daily from white corn flour, olive oil and Portuguese spices, they’re 80 cents each and must be pre-ordered by calling 938.1927.
• Ed Metcalf’s new sushi spot scheduled to open this month in the Lucky shopping center is, not surprisingly, a bit behind schedule. But, fear not! Construction is quickly wrapping up and we should be crunching into our fresh salmon hand rolls come May.
• Beginning this week, Sonoma Market expands their hours for your extended shopping pleasure. They are now open from 6 a.m. until 10 p.m. daily.
Francis’s Favorite Potato Galette
Recipe from Restaurant L’Ami Louis
Serves 2-4
2 lbs. Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1⁄2” x 1⁄4” pieces
Kosher salt, to taste
2 T. duck or bacon fat
2 T. unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 T. minced flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. minced garlic
Put potatoes into a 4-qt. pot and cover by 1” with salted water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, 20–30 minutes. drain potatoes, transfer to a baking sheet, and chill.
Heat oven to 400°. Melt fat and butter in a 6” cast-iron skillet or ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat. Put chilled potatoes into a bowl. Pour fat and butter over potatoes (reserving skillet) and season with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Tranfser potatoes to reserved skillet, cover with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit inside rim of skillet. Cook, smashing potatoes into skillet with a metal spatula, until edges begin to crisp and brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven and bake until potato cake is golden brown, 10–15 minutes (to check, use a fork to lift up one edge of the potato cake). Invert a small serving plate over skillet. Using 2 towels, hold plate and skillet together firmly and invert skillet. Remove skillet and garnish potato cake with parsley and garlic. Serve hot.
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