It takes not only an amazing amount of passion to open a restaurant, but an immeasurable quantity of patience, dedication, and determination. Well, all that and money. It was obvious from the minute I walked into OSO that here, there were mass quantities of all the above.
OSO is a food persons place; my kind of restaurant. The compact, narrow space is all glowy with burgundy Edison lighting, warm, distressed timber-coated walls, and cuddle-friendly seating. Dishes here are meant to be shared; small plates with big flavors. A place where I can pop into by myself on a weeknight and dig into a couple of things and sip on a glass of wine or two, or could easily while away an evening ordering the menu in its entirety with a group of friends.
A wide, screened-in window faces the street; wonderfully front porch-like. Intimate tables are scattered between a nice little bar and my favorite new spot; the food bar, which overlooks the minuscule kitchen and the earnest chef working away there. The service is sweet, refreshingly smiley, obviously happy to be a part of something, finally so cool in Sonoma.
It is nearly impossible to not want to order the whole menu and you shouldn’t even try to restrain yourself. A party of four could easily do it in one deliriously delicious food-filled evening. It took me two. An absolute must are the Oysters Rockefeller. A breath-faltering, bacon-laden cloud of steam arrived seconds before our platter was set before us. Six plump, briny oysters are blanketed with creamy, tender spinach, a generous glug of Pernod, and a scattering of tiny, smoky-meaty bits of crunchy bacon; a seriously sexy version of the New Orleans’ classic.
I am already really craving the simple plate of grilled bread slathered with milky ricotta and earthy, roasted mushrooms. This is a comforting combination that screams for a big glass of red wine and a rainy, wintery, Sonoma evening.
Fragrant yellow curry flavors deviled eggs, the yolks a lush, mayonnaise rich version of their former selves. A decadent choice, made more luxurious with the addition of towering piles of sweet Dungeness crab gracing the tops of each half egg.
Chef Bush’s lust must lean heavily towards the sea. He offers what is easily some of the most sparkling, pristine seafood I have experienced locally. The Crudo was raw Kampachi: fat slabs of impeccable fish were pure, sweet expressions of the sea, simple except for a restrained drizzling of nutty sesame oil and pretty slivers of radish and jalapeño. I am already fantasizing about the Pickled Shrimp, a favorite southern dish of mine. I yearn to sit at the bar with a glass of bubbly digging into a plate – or two – of buttery-sweet, subtly spiced shrimp, swiping up every last bit of the pungent horseradish aioli.
I don’t ask much of you, but I beg you to order the Seafood Platter here. This swoon-inducing, ice-filled bowl holds surprisingly lavish bits of pickled shrimp, crudo, and ceviche, plus the festive addition of raw oysters and their dipping sauces. If there is a more gorgeous dish in Sonoma, I have yet to bite into it.
More seafood goodness: delicate mussels are perfectly steamed in a homey broth of miso and bob alongside teeny chicken meatballs laced with ginger. Grilled hunks of country bread are much appreciated, you wouldn’t dare leave a bit of the cozy broth behind.
This winter if you’re looking for me, I will more than likely be hunkered down here with the Spice Rubbed Lamb Shoulder. Meltingly tender hunks of perfectly gamey lamb are falling apart over roasted vegetables, peppery arugula, and salty cotija cheese.
I have to say, if it is not obvious, I’ve fallen for OSO, and for Chef Bush in the way that I tend to fall in love with people that radiate an infatuation for sharing their version of deliciousness with the world. A perfect example of the wonderful sensuality and coziness of his food was a little pot of butterscotch pudding. As ridiculously stuffed as I was, I almost couldn’t finish it. But, you know I did.
Find more information about OSO, including how to make reservations, visit ososonoma.com or call 931.6926
Kristin Jorgensen — Sun Food Editor
Might be nice if the writer told us the location of OSO