Through the kitchen door
Are you ever curious about what restaurant folks are dining on behind those mysterious swinging kitchen doors? Often times we’re simply stuffing bread in our mouths between tables or downing a strong, iced coffee; the thought of a real meal of any kind hours away.
My experience with restaurant staff meals has swung between thoughtful renditions of a line cooks’ family favorites to disappointing leftovers carelessly thrown together and filled with ingredients from the walk-in that may or may not be going bad. That’s if the restaurant offers the staff a meal at all. Although, behind the red swinging “kitchen doors” at the just-opened, Kitchen Door in Napa’s Oxbow Public Marketplace, ex-Martini House partners, Todd Humphries and Richard Miyashiro promise diners a glimpse into what delicious, simple things chefs and restaurateurs like to dine on after serving up fancy tasting menus. It’s a terrific, airy and bright space. You’re now in the congenial kitchen of a friend.
One of my favorite things, which you sadly don’t see on menus much anymore, is Beef Carpaccio. Their version was sublime. Tiny little flecks of crispy truffled potato added a thoughtful crunch. The selection of crispy flat breads out of the wood-burning oven, with inspired toppings, are fun to share. A
duck liver mousse was outrageous, liver-y and creamy, spread on a warm flatbread it could easily be the perfect dish when paired with plenty of coarse salt and one of their affordable glasses of cold white wine.
Long, communal tables add to the convivial nature of the place. Chefs chopping away in the open kitchen lend to the feeling that you’ve been invited to a big, fun dinner party. A half rotisserie chicken was juicy, with a side dish of peas and carrots that stole the show. The dish that left our group swooning was the fresh, wide noodles in a creamy – dreamy – mushroom sauce.
Desserts were definitely not an afterthought: gorgeous little jars of panna cotta were crowned with fresh, sweet berries and the to-die-for Straus soft serve ice cream was offered “Affogato” with a shot of hot espresso. The house favorite is a sweet, candy cap mushroom bread pudding. Simply one of the most delicious things. Ever. The restaurant’s gorgeous outdoor deck offers a spot to sit in the sun overlooking the murky, slow moving waters of the Napa River. So grab a glass of something and stay awhile. When you pass through these kitchen doors, they won’t make you do the dishes! The Kitchen Door is located in the Oxbow Marketplace, downtown Napa. Visit the restaurant’s website for hours, phone number and to see a full menu at kitchendoornapa.com.
What’s cookin’ Sonoma?
When you’re in the mood for breakfast at noon, where to go? The Community Café has answered their diners’ eager request for their hearty breakfast of fluffy waffles, seasonal veggie frittatas or homemade granola anytime of the day. They’re open seven days from 7 a.m. until 2 p.m. • A very important f.y.i. so you don’t look like a tourist while eating at the Fremont Diner – which I totally wish I did more often! – you no longer order at the counter. The team began offering table service last week. The new, smiling and completely capable wait staff is doing a fabulous job. I couldn’t imagine having a reason to love the Diner more, but now I do! • You’ll find one of the most delicious breakfast offerings in town at the Market held each Saturday from 9 a.m. until 1 p.m. at the Community Center. Mike [the bejkr] is on-hand with his to-die-for breads and his newest creation; an egg sandwich called “nid d’amour,” or a love nest. Yum! • We already knew the new and improved Corner Café at the Eldorado Hotel is a fabulous spot to while away the morning over coffee and a perfectly made croissant, but did you know it’s also the spot to catch a Giant’s game? While watching all the games this season, enjoy amazing specials on their already affordable selection of beer, wine and tasty snacks! Call 996.3030 for details.
On the Menu
Today begins the big NASCAR race event weekend at Infineon Raceway and if you’re heading out there be prepared for some scrumptious, new local food offerings from the speedway’s official restaurant company, Levi Restaurants. Some highlights include the Taste of Sonoma, Infineon’s luxury suite and hospitality village, which will showcase local ingredients including salad greens from Oak Hill Farm, cheeses from Laura Chenel, Bellwether Farms, Point Reyes Blue and Vella, olive oil from the Olive Press and sustainable meats from Niman Ranch. Other fun sounding options include the Sonoma Squid Shack which prepares hand-battered squid with a trio of aioli for dipping and organic, fresh-squeezed lemonade served in a Mason jar, with or without vodka. Leave it up to a Sonoma speedway for “greening up” NASCAR! Visit infineonraceway.com for all the exciting NASCAR details.
• This Friday, June 24, is another delicious and festive Food Truck Friday at Sebastiani Winery. Beginning at 5:30 p.m. enjoy live music, offerings from six area food trucks – including one of my favorites from Napa, Dim Sum Charlie’s – and Sebastiani wines. For more information visit sebastiani.com.
• Now that the weather is ideal, it’s a perfect time to sign up for this Saturday’s “Hike & Taste in the Vineyards” at Kunde Family Estate. Join Sonoma Valley Docent Bill Myers on a fun, casual and up-close hike through the 1,850 acre volcanic and vertical Estate. This is a great opportunity to see sustainable wine growing practices at work while taking in some of wine country’s most spectacular scenery. Bill’s tours wind through the estate’s distinct ecosystems, each one uniquely contributing to the process of sustainable wine growing. Taste wines along the way in the very vineyards where the grapes are grown. Find more information and a link to make reservations at kunde.com or by calling 833.5501.
• “Jazz on the Oxbow” returns to the pretty patio overlooking the Napa River at the Oxbow Public Market from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. this Sunday with our favorite local jazz band, Rue Manouche. Guests can enjoy oysters and other nibbles from Hog Island, cheeses from the Oxbow Cheese Merchant and other fare from the just-opened Kitchen Door. Visit oxbowpublicmarket.com for more information.
• Make your reservations now for one of these two fabulous Fourth of July events. Ramekins is hosting their “Second Annual Fourth of July BBQ” from 5 to 10 p.m. They will have plenty of food from the grill, live music and a patriotic hat decorating contest for the kids. The patio offers front row seating for Sonoma’s fireworks display. Tickets are $85 per adult and $43 per child. Contact Ramekins for all the details and to reserve your space by calling 933.0450.
• ESTATE’S “Fourth of July Party” sounds like such a blast! Ticket prices include a bountiful Italian buffet, three bar tickets, live music by Sonoma’s Tudo Bem, complimentary wine corkage and one of the best views for watching the fireworks. Adults are $75 and children are $25. Call 933.3663 to reserve your space.
Beef Carpaccio with Shaved Parmesan
Serves 6
1 lb. piece of Beef Tenderloin
1 T. local olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
6 ounces baby arugula
4 ounces Parmesan cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler
Wrap beef in plastic, and chill in freezer until firm, about 1 hour. Using a very sharp knife, cut beef across the grain into 1/8-inch-thick slices. Gently pound slices between pieces of waxed paper. Refrigerate beef slices between pieces of waxed paper 1 hour (up to 2 hours).
Whisk together oil, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper in a medium bowl; set aside. Arrange beef in a single layer on serving plates. Drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Toss arugula with the dressing, and arrange over beef. Top with Parmesan; drizzle with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Kristin Viguerie is one of Sonoma’s most passionate, food obsessed residents. In this weekly column, she covers all the delicious happenings, foodie events and restaurants in Sonoma, the rest of Wine Country and beyond. Find her at her Sonoma Plaza shop, Junipero & Co. (juniperoandco.com) or blogging daily as the Cook (thecardiganandcook.com) or via email at [email protected].
