Happy Hour Sonoma Style: Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen
In our first installation of Happy Hour Sonoma Style we visit Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen. Shiso focuses mainly on Japanese cuisine with occasional forays into other Asian cuisine, including Vietnamese and Korean. We first heard about Shiso’s happy hour via their very active Facebook page, where they frequently post mouthwatering photos of oysters and sushi specials of the day. Shiso located in Maxwell Village Shopping Center. It’s unassuming with its place next to the Park Point gym. Don’t let that deceive you: Shiso has a contemporary decor that uses natural materials (wood, stone). A sushi bar and open kitchen is the focus of the restaurant, with a patio in the back that overlooks the largest eucalyptus tree in Sonoma. The restaurant is tastefully designed so you forget you’re next to a putt putt course and a Payless Shoe store.
Our happy hour crew of three was immediately greeted by a perky waitstaff and a full sushi bar of hungry patrons. We were nervous for a moment: was happy hour only at the bar, like at many establishments, or the entire restaurant? The staff told us we could sit anywhere and quelled our fears by telling us happy hour was for everyone, not just those holding down the sushi bar. We picked our table and got down to business. Our waiter provided us the happy hour menu, full dinner menu, and specials, which included “The Godfather,” a sushi roll made with seared steak and tempura shrimp and a Maine lobster roll.
We started with edamame ($1.75), Japanese guacamole with wonton chips ($2.95), crispy chicken wings with wasabi ranch ($5), and of course, drinks: Sapporo on draft ($3), a glass of dry Prosecco ($5), and the house white wine, a sauvignon blanc ($5). While the edamame is what you expect, the Japanese guacamole came out of left field. Upon digging in with fresh crispy wonton chips we were taken aback: avocado mixed with wasabi, Japan’s famed condiment that packs a hot punch due to being a part of the horseradish family. We were grateful for the staff accommodating our request for extra wonton chips and we cleaned the plate. It was a welcome surprise, and representative of the clever nature of Chef de Cuisine and proprietor Ed Metcalfe, who brings a creative force to Sonoma Valley sushi ala Morimoto-style and veggies often sourced from his own organic garden to be served in restaurant.
A plate of three chicken wings arrived, perfectly placed upon a bed of zingy wasabi ranch. The wings were delicious and presented another surprise: Korean-style wings that were meaty, perfectly cooked, and grilled with a mellow teriyaki-style sauce. We loved them so much we ordered another plate, allowing us to avoid negotiating who got the last wing. Next up, six raw oysters ($1/each) and grilled miso sardines. The oysters were plated beautifully and while I’m not sure what kind they were (we weren’t told and we didn’t ask), they were a hit with the happy hour crew. They also offer fried oysters for those who like a little bit more of a crunch with their bivalves.
Our final happy hour dish was a large Pacific sardine, grilled with a touch of miso. My co-happy hour crewmember, Lauren, deboned it in a remarkably fast manner and we dug in – the sardine had a mild flavor and more meat than I expected. It was really tasty! The staff asked if we wanted anything else from the happy hour menu, which is a must for any good happy hour: ensuring that customers are invited to buy more cheap eats and drinks just before the end. There is no sushi on the happy hour menu and that is where Shiso is smarter than us: you’re craving it after indulging in affordable Asian delights and Metcalfe and his staff can continue to serve high quality, fresh fish and not lower the quality for the sake of happy hour quantity. They also know that the sushi lovers will splurge beyond happy hour and get nigiri or a handroll. And yes, the Godfather was delicious.
Shiso Modern Asian Kitchen serves happy hour Monday-Saturday, 3-6PM; 19161 Sonoma Highway, in Maxwell Village Shopping Center, shisorestaurant.com
