Lifelong friends share memories, flavors of Delhi homeland

Several years ago, Raj Singh, an Indian expat seeking out the flavors of home in a Mountain View restaurant, found something else he thought he’d left behind long ago in Delhi — his childhood friend Bhupender Singh.

Pictured: Raj Singh and Bhupender Singh at Delhi Belly Indian Bistro in Sonoma

Raj was working in finance while Bhupender, after distinguishing himself as a chef of Bukhara, a world-renowned restaurant in Delhi, had been recruited to work in America. And here they suddenly were, in the same restaurant, 7,700 miles from their homeland.

Reunited, the friends spoke endlessly about a favorite subject, the childhood memories of celebratory feasts, and the flavors, spices and scents of food vendors on the street of Dehli. Soon they envisioned a restaurant of their own where they could bring some of those traditional dishes, with a modern twist, to the U.S.

The result is the Delhi Belly Indian Bistro, at 522 Broadway in Sonoma. “It’s the food we grew up eating,” said Bhupender. “We wanted to recreate those childhood memories.”

Even with all the Indian restaurants on the Bay Area scene, “there always seemed to be something lacking,” said Raj.

On a wine country visit with their families in June, the two came across the empty space on Broadway. They had started out thinking about Napa, but the location – and the town – seemed perfect. Weeks later, the deal was done. They redecorated, installed the special imported (from England) tandoori ovens, created a menu of regional Indian favorites, and opened in November.

“It’s not a fusion restaurant,” said, “but modern Indian based on authentic recipes and flavors.” Sonoma is reflected in the fresh, locally-sourced ingredients; he even grinds and mixes his own spice blends. “We’re working with the farm-to-table concept,” Raj said.

The bold flavors – “spicy doesn’t mean hot,” according to Bhupender – enliven meat, poultry and an array of vegetable dishes. Recently, the chef got a compliment from a meat lover who had to admit, “you even make the kale taste good.”

Lunch and dinner served daily, 522 Broadway, 707.343.1003. Delhibellybistro.com