Under the Sun: Three generations of Ling

James, is it true you have owned and operated the Shanghai Restaurant for 40 years?

Yes, five years near the Plaza in the Peterson Building where the Bank of Marin is now, and thirty-five years in our present location on 5th Street West.

May I ask how old you are?

Sure. I am 68 years old. My father, Hsien H. Ling (at right) is 88, and my son Jackie Ling is 41.

Hsien, do you live here in Sonoma?

Yes. I moved here from Taiwan in 1952 and was with the U.S. Navy. After that I worked for Mr. Koblentz in the newspaper business; I was friends with Robert Lynch at the Index Tribune. I became a general contractor 40 years ago, remodeled this shopping center in 1982, and bought and renovated many homes here in Sonoma.

Wow, your family has been here a long time! Jackie, what about you?

I left Sonoma after the fifth grade when my parents divorced in 1985, and moved to New York City; now I live in the borough of Queens.

Doesn’t sound like you will be taking over the restaurant, Jackie.

No. I studied architecture and now make a living doing marketing work for some auto companies. I did design the look of the restaurant when it was renovated again in 2012. I get back here at least once each year.

James, you must like to cook. Where did you learn?

My mother, who has now passed away, was a legendary cook, a great cook, and she taught me what I know. Our style of food has changed over the years; in the beginning it was Shanghai style, but is now more Szechuan and spicer. People like spicier food now, like our Hong You Chao Shou, wontons in hot chili sauce. Everything gets cooked to order.

And your customers, are they locals or tourists?

We are popular with locals, and many of them are getting old like me. Lately we are seeing more tourists and tour groups. Chinese tourists arrive here to eat by the bus load.

Where do you get your ingredients? They probably don’t sell them locally.

I go to Chinatown in San Francisco every Sunday to do shopping. I have been going to the same stores there for many, many years.

All of you have been here long enough to have seen changes. Any comments, Hsien?

There’s lot’s of newcomers. Home prices have gone up, but I still live in the same house for all these years. I have big gardens filled with fruit trees and vegetables and supply the restaurant with them; Mangos, Asian Pears, and many exotic Chinese vegetables.

How about you, Jackie? Think Sonoma has changed?

I think the Square still feels much the same. The shops have changed, of course, but some older names are still around, too. I went to school with people who still live here today.

James, what about you? Live in town?

Yes. I live just a few blocks from the restaurant and like to walk to work. I work six days-a-week, about eleven or twelve hours each day.

Well, any plans to retire?

I have no plans. As long as I can work, I will work. I still enjoy it.

Interview by Larry Barnett