Farewell to a farmer

By Seth Dolinksy | Sonoma Farm Scene

I first met David Cooper working for Oak Hill Farm over a decade ago. He came directly from the Agroecology program at UC Santa Cruz, and came ready to learn everything it takes to run a small farm operation. After a period of tutelage with venerable Farmer Paul Wirtz, David moved up to become the farmer for Oak Hill, and Paul moved back to running his own operation. He stepped up to the challenge with great produce, and impressive management and leadership skills. 

David farmed the amazing volcanic soils at Oak Hill Farm, which the late Ann Teller had maintained as one of the few organic food production operations in the Valley.  He lived the life of a farmer, 10-hour days six days a week, maybe one vacation a year, and the steady commitment to producing the highest quality food products for his community.  

During the fires of 2017, he woke to find the eastern portion of the farm property on fire, and evacuated under the onslaught of flames, watching in his rear-view mirror as flames engulfed the old farm house he called home, his workshop, and nearly everything he owned. 

More recently we learned that David was leaving Oak Hill, devastating news for those of us who know the value of having food producers in our midst, particularly those committed to such high standards. Before he leaves for his new home in Hawaii, I was able to catch up with Dave for a bit of Q & A.

You are leaving Sonoma for Hawaii, and leaving us with quite a gap to fill. It sounds like Oak Hill is working on bringing on a new team. What are some of the challenges coming into Sonoma Valley to farm?  

Access to land and labor. Finding quality farm labor is nearly impossible at this point, and housing for them.  Land is too expensive to farm profitably in Sonoma, and has increasingly been bought up by deep pockets and large corporations.  

What are your thoughts on land access in Sonoma Valley for food production?

Limited, unless you are coming from an existing land-holding family, have millions of dollars to spend, or have access to land via long-term leases.

How can we support additional land moving toward food production? (Include your thoughts on Land Trusts or other long-term farmland preservation such as MALT in Marin).

Farmland preservation has been mostly about reimbursing existing land owners for easements on their properties, who must commit to continuing farming on those properties to keep them in production. The Sonoma Land Trust has opened up some properties to prospective farmers, complete with housing which is essential. Farmers need long-term leases, 10-20 years to make the large investments in time and energy on a property worth it. Some more recent ideas, such as preserving and providing access to open space surrounding our communities for farm land. seem attractive as they create fire buffers while increasing food production.

What are solutions to the labor shortage in agriculture in our area?

This again ties into the cost of land and housing, and also what people are willing to pay for food. If farmers are to pay $15/hour, the cost of food will go up, and we can’t compete with products from Mexico where they pay $10/day labor.

This column has been focused on local, organic food production, why are they essential for a healthy community?

Local and organic creates economic diversity, high quality food with great flavor, high nutrient value, grown in a way that cares for the land, water, and soil.

How well do you feel Sonoma Valley supports local, organic foods?

With respect to the few hundred that are regular supporters of our farmers markets, farm stands, and CSA’s – minimally. Maybe 1% of the Valley population, which is about the national average.

For the rest of the interview, visit www.springshall.org